A Local's Guide to Old Dubai

Dubai grew up around its creek, so start there. A wooden abra still ferries commuters between Deira and Bur Dubai for a single dirham, and the five-minute crossing is the best-value boat ride in the city.

From the Bur Dubai landing it's a short walk to the Al Fahidi Historic District, where wind-tower houses and narrow sikkas survive from the early 1900s. The Dubai Museum in the old Al Fahidi Fort sets the scene in half an hour.

Cross back to Deira for the Gold Souk, where hundreds of shopfronts glitter under a shaded arcade, and the neighbouring Spice Souk, all saffron, frankincense, and dried lime. Haggling is expected and good-natured, start at roughly half and meet in the middle.

Don't rush past the textile lanes of Bur Dubai's souk either. It's quieter, the pashminas and fabrics are excellent, and the sellers are happy to talk if you're not in a hurry.

Old Dubai is the best food in the city for the money. Try a karak chai from a roadside stall, then sit down for a proper meal in the Al Fahidi courtyard cafes that serve Emirati staples like machboos and luqaimat.

A guided heritage and creek walk ties it all together if you'd rather have the stories handed to you, local guides know which doorway leads to the best majlis and which trader gives the fairest price.