Getting Around Dubai: Metro, Taxis, Abras and When to Drive

Stand at the top of the Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall Metro station at 8am and you see the whole problem at once: a clean, driverless train pulling in every four minutes, then a 15-minute walk across air-conditioned footbridges before you reach the actual mall doors. Getting around Dubai is like that. The pieces are good. The joins are where you lose your time.

The city runs about 50 km along one spine, Sheikh Zayed Road, and most of what you came to see sits near it. Pick the right tool for each hop and you rarely wait more than ten minutes for anything.

The Metro is the cheapest serious option and the easiest to like. You need a Nol card to ride it: buy a Silver Nol at any station for AED 25, which already holds about AED 19 of credit, then top up at the machines as you go. A single trip costs AED 3 to AED 7.50 depending on how many zones you cross. Tap in, tap out, finished.

Trains run from roughly 5am to midnight, with later hours on Friday and Saturday nights and a slow start on Sunday mornings. Carriages are spotless. There is a women-and-children carriage at one end and a Gold Class cabin at the front that charges double for a seat and a little quiet.

Two lines do the work. The Red Line follows Sheikh Zayed Road from the airport (Terminals 1 and 3 each have a station) down through Deira, Downtown, the DIFC, Mall of the Emirates, the Marina and out to Expo City. The Green Line loops through old Dubai: the gold and spice souks of Deira, Bur Dubai and the Creek. The two cross at Union and BurJuman, where you change for free.

Now the gaps. The Metro does not reach the Palm, JBR beach, most of Jumeirah, or the older residential pockets. The Marina station drops you a hot ten-minute walk from the water. And the airport stations shut overnight, which surprises anyone on a 2am landing. For those last miles, you switch to something else.

Cream-coloured RTA taxis are everywhere and always metered. The flag-down is AED 5 to AED 5.50, then about AED 2 a kilometre, with a AED 12 minimum on any trip. A typical Marina-to-Downtown run lands around AED 45 to AED 60 in light traffic. Pink-roofed taxis are driven by women, for women and families.

Careem (a Dubai company, now owned by Uber) and Uber both work well, and Careem's Hala option books you a real RTA taxi at the meter rate with no surge. Fares sit close to the street rate most of the day and climb during the evening rush and after the bars empty out. For a group of three or four, one car often beats four separate Metro fares anyway.

The Dubai Tram fills one of the Metro's bigger holes. It runs 11 stops through the Marina and JBR and connects to the Red Line at Sobha Realty and DMCC stations, plus the Palm Monorail. Same Nol card, fares around AED 3.

For one dirham, the abras are the best deal in the city. These wooden boats have crossed Dubai Creek between Bur Dubai and Deira for decades, loading about 20 people at a time and leaving when full, which takes roughly a minute. You hand the coins straight to the driver. Skip the AED 120-an-hour tourist charter unless you want the long loop; the working crossing is the real thing.