Abu Dhabi in a Day

Go first thing, before the heat and the crowds. The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, 82 domes, the world's largest hand-knotted carpet, reflective pools that mirror the white marble, is unmissable and at its most serene early in the morning.

Dress modestly: long sleeves and trousers or a long skirt for everyone, and a headscarf for women. Abayas are available to borrow at the entrance, and admission is free. Allow at least 90 minutes.

From the mosque, head to Saadiyat Island for the Louvre Abu Dhabi, where Jean Nouvel's vast latticework dome throws a 'rain of light' over galleries that trace human creativity across civilisations. It's the perfect cool, indoor anchor for the hottest part of the day.

Two hours covers the highlights comfortably. The waterside cafe and the dome's underside make for the day's best photos, so leave a little time to linger.

Close the day along the Corniche, the capital's eight-kilometre waterfront, with a stop at the Qasr Al Watan presidential palace if time allows. It's a calm, green counterpoint to Dubai's intensity.

Because the city's sights are spread out and the mosque has strict timings, a private day tour is the stress-free way to do Abu Dhabi from Dubai, one driver, one plan, and no juggling transfers between far-flung stops.